SMOKE

This is as clear as Castle Rock has appeared since Monday. It’s right there just left of center, 0.6 miles offshore. Much of the week we have not been able to see it at all, even though we know just where to look. Smoke between here and there has turned the air yellow, the sun, even at noon, no brighter than an orange ball in the sky.

My tongue tastes copper metallic. My throat feels the smoke. Sand blew in the skylights open at the beginning of the week.

Gary and I live in my grandfather’s house on the Oregon coast. My family has been here for 109 years. My mother recalled the Tillamook Burn, the first one. She and her sister played in an ocean that was warm and returned to the house covered in soot. She said it was wonderful fun, but their mother was exasperated. All water in 1933 had to be hauled by hand and warmed on a wood stove. There was not yet a road to leave and my grandfather only came on weekends. Thinking over that story my mother told me, I think my grandmother must have been terrified.

That first of the Tillamook Burn fires began 14 August 1933 and was not extinguished until rainfall put it out the 5th of September. My mother was eight years old. All told, 350 thousand acres burned during those weeks. While that fire still burned, my mother, her sister, my grandmother and grandfather drove north on the beach and then east to escape to Portland, Oregon where they lived nine months of the year.

(The second fire burned 190 thousand acres in 1939, the third burned 180 thousand acres in 1945, and the fourth 32 thousand in 1951 before I was born. These mostly burned over the same ground.)

Yesterday, Portland had the worst air quality of any city in the entire world. By this afternoon more acres had burned in the past three days than during all four Tillamook Burns put together. People died—no one is certain how many in my state. Nearly a million acres have burned in Oregon. Many fires are still completely out of control, “uncontained.” Some are predicted to continue burning right through Autumn and into Winter. Firefighters (30% of them college students) are overworked and tired.

The number of acres that have burned in the state in the last three days is almost double the amount that typically burns in an entire year. “We have never seen this amount of uncontained fire across the state,” Governor Brown said.

The Oregonian

Here, visibility has closed off views north, south, east, and west. The smoke has been so bad sometimes that we could not take our daily walk or open windows. It is worse in the Willamette Valley and further down the coast.

Irresponsible locals blew illegal fireworks into the air at the edge of the State Forest a few days ago. People walk toddlers on the sand. Tourists who arrived yesterday in the rental house next door are burning a wood fire in the fireplace. We shake our heads.

Isn’t it obvious why a smokey fire is a terrible idea? Even on vacation? While forest fires make breathing “hazardous” in nearly the entire state and thousands are homeless? They probably put the air conditioning on because the weather has been unseasonably hot. (But no, they opened windows.)

The yellow sky holds a blood red disk. 
The air burns orange, the light 
all tinted brass. Take care, dear friends, 
it's dangerous. We all still hope 
we'll survive this year, more than that: 
live to see a yellow sun again, 
a blue sky, clouds, and rain in puddles.
Share my faith in future better times, 
in quiet walks, a song hummed, truth
told, the news of birds returned to nest.

• from the State of Oregon:

Stay safe from wildfire smoke

As wildfires continue throughout the state, please continue to take care of yourselves and those around you. Keep an eye on local conditions in case evacuation levels change and find resources at wildfire.oregon.gov.

With wildfire smoke creating unsafe air quality conditions that are expected to persist for several days, please remember to follow these tips to protect yourself and your family:

  • Stay indoors as much as possible.
  • Limit activity outdoors.
  • If you have heart or lung disease or respiratory illnesses such as asthma, follow your health care provider’s advice about prevention and treatment of symptoms.
  • Reduce other sources of smoke, such as cigarette smoking and wood-burning stoves, for example.
  • Check current air quality conditions. Go to oregonsmoke.blogspot.com to find the current air quality and wildfire smoke resources.
  • Stay hydrated. Drink plenty of water.
  • Remember that while cloth masks and face coverings do not protect you from wildfire smoke, they do offer protection against COVID-19. N95 respirators may offer some protection if properly fit-tested and worn. Otherwise, they may create a false sense of security. N95s are not available in children’s sizes.
  • Learn more about the dangers of wildfire smoke and how you can stay safe by visiting healthoregon.org/wildfires.

It is probably fair to note that the State officially asked people to avoid outdoor fires in April. April.

‘BOFFIN’

Smoke was easy to see over distance. The western sky was brown. This is not an accurate photo of the what the sun looked like yesterday evening. It was blood red and we could look right at it a couple minutes after this photo was taken, with no after-image at all.

A “boffin” is a pejorative term for the cliché absent-minded professor or scientist.

We are still in summer.

Yesterday, as a result of strong winds beginning the evening before, the power was out here and everything with it. Our flip phone had only two bars and we expected it to run down any second. Even so, Gary was on that phone first thing yesterday morning and found an electrician to have a look at the downed mast that serves our duplex and the power company to disconnect that mast until it can be repaired. The repairs are happening now.

So, more than a day without power, expensive repairs, and so much continued wind and smoke from fires around the state that it remains unsafe to go outdoors for our walk.

And it’s summer.

I spent much of yesterday knitting and plan to do that again today while I watch No Highway in the Sky (1951) on DVD. Jimmy Stewart plays the boffin, a Rhodes scholar who never went home but has continued his scientific research in England at an aircraft company. The film has its roots in Nevil Schute’s novel No Highway with an epigraph from “The Wanderer” by John Masefield:

Therefore, go forth, companion: when you find
No Highway more, no track, all being blind,
The way to go shall glimmer in the mind.

Theodore Honey (Stewart) has a theory about vibration causing metal fatigue. As a result the metal in tailpiece of a passenger plane will fail and the tail itself fall off after a measured number of hours of service. Honey is interested in theory alone, not the realities of planes carrying passengers and crew crashing in the wilderness. And that has already happened: a plane has crashed killing all passengers and crew. The tailpiece is missing from the crash. A new administrator at the aircraft company places great faith in Honey, in science over convenience, but others think the boffin is simply crazy.

So here we are. We dismiss the warnings of science at our peril.

Global warming, or “climate change” if you prefer, has been predicted and tracked for decades by scientists. It was controversial at one time, say sixty years ago—that is, there was a time when thinking people disagreed. Rachel Carson, author of Silent Spring (1962), accurately predicted the devastating results of use of DDT. When the poison was outlawed bird species began recovering. In the forty-one years we have lived here, we have seen the return of eagles and pelicans (both endangered in the 60s), as well as two species of jay, ravens, and others. Carson believed in the 1950s that climate change was not human-caused but the result of natural shifts in weather.

Carson died as a result of complications from breast cancer in 1964 before she could see what she started. Despite her background as a marine biologist, she wrote Silent Spring to warn of the dangers of 20th century pesticides, herbicides, and other poisons because no one else would. In the end, people listened to Carson’s warnings and outlawed some of the poisons. She was right about that but she was wrong about global warming.

More than fifty years later, there is no real controversy among scientists about global warming. The cause of climate change is human activity destroying forests, burning fossil fuels, and so on. Human activity will destroy human populations just as DDT destroyed bird populations. It is happening now and has been happening for a very long time in human years; it’s just that we have been hundreds of years noticing. Since the start of the Industrial Revolution. The world is warmer than it would have been without our greed for energy. Temperatures rise of even a few degrees is enough to alter weather patterns that cause drought, melt glaciers, raise sea level, generate more hurricanes and other storms, and other aberrations. Human behavior is the cause, just as we were the cause of near extinction of eagles and brown pelicans.

Technically this is just the beginning of fire season in the western United States, and already millions of acres are burning, records are being set for high temperatures, and firefighters choke on smoke.

And it is still summer. We saved some of the birds. I would like to think we could save us all.

Butte County firefighters watch as flames tower over their truck at the Bear fire in Oroville, Calif., on Wednesday. Fires are burning from Washington state to Southern California.

“In southern Oregon, people in parts of Medford, Talent and nearby communities were ordered to evacuate the area immediately on Tuesday, with officials citing the imminent threat of fast-moving fires. The entire town of Phoenix [Oregon] — which has several thousand people — was told to leave. …

“Deputies in Clackamas County, southeast of Portland, spent the night going door to door to make sure residents knew they had to get out, the county sheriff’s office said. …

” ‘We’re in an unprecedented fire event,’ Oregon Gov. Kate Brown said, urging people to follow evacuation orders, ‘try to reduce your smoke exposure – and take care of each other.’ …

“Across the region, 15 new large wildfires were reported on Monday alone, the National Interagency Fire Center said. That makes at least 87 large fires, which have burned more than 2.7 million acres. Even in places where flames haven’t reached, massive amounts smoke have filled the sky, making it difficult to breathe.”—NPR

Yesterday evening we could not breathe the air that came through an open window. Before summer ends, no rain predicted.

The tail is falling from our plane, and the boffin is still shouting to be heard.

Do I need to note that there is a burn ban in effect? Perhaps I should. Yet tourists and less reputable locals have burned cordwood and drift on the beach each evening . . .

“DEQ, in conjunction with the Oregon Department of Forestry, Oregon State Fire Marshal’s Office, Oregon Department of Agriculture and Oregon Health Authority, is asking people to refrain from all outdoor burning activities until further notice.   

“For more details, please visit the “DEQ response to COVID-19” web page.

“As of April 3, 2020, DEQ, along with its partners Oregon Department of ForestryOffice of the State Fire MarshalOregon Department of Agriculture  and Oregon Health Authority, is asking people to refrain from all outdoor burning activities until further notice.”

Updated 9/8/2020: The fire restrictions maps below are having technical issues. Please no burning or campfires while a red flag fire weather warning is in effect until further notice.    

State of Oregon: DEQ

OUR ACTIONS/OUR CHOICES

Liberty lies in the hearts of men and women; when it dies there, no constitution, no law, no court can save it . . . while it lies there, it needs no constitution, no law, no court to save it.” 

“What then is the spirit of liberty? I cannot define it; I can only tell you my own faith. The spirit of liberty is the spirit which is not too sure that it is right; the spirit of liberty is the spirit which seeks to understand the minds of other men and women; the spirit of liberty is the spirit which weighs their interests alongside its own without bias; the spirit of liberty remembers that not even a sparrow falls to earth unheeded; the spirit of liberty is the spirit of Him who, near two thousand years ago, taught mankind that lesson it has never learned, but has never quite forgotten; that there may be a kingdom where the least shall be heard and considered side by side with the greatest.”

jurist Learned Hand (1944)

While we enlist our reason and heart to understand our fellow Americans, we prevail.

Billings Learned Hand January 27, 1872 – August 18, 1961) was an American judge and judicial philosopher. He served on the United States District Courth for the Southern District of New York and later the United States Courth of Appeals for the Second Circuit. Hand has been quoted more often by legal scholars and by the Supreme Court of the United States than any other lower-court judge.—Wikipedia

He married Bryn Mawr graduate Frances Amelia Fincke and they had three daughters who posed for painter Maxfield Parrish. Hand demands respect for his defense of free speech and support of equity under the law, his public discretion and private struggles to protect this nation and our Constitution against all comers. A lifelong republican, he cautiously supported FDR’s election as President and fought for justice and fairness throughout his life.

The “Ocean Shrine” built by my granddaughter who says it’s where you put offerings to the ocean.

WHAT WE DO

Former Arizona Representative Gabby Giffords, shot in the head in 2011 as she held a constituent event, set the message for the DNC last evening: “Today, I struggle with speech, but I have not lost my voice. America needs all of us to speak out, even when you have to fight to find the words. We are at a crossroads. We can choose to let this continue or we can act.” She implored listeners to vote. 

In a somber speech, former President Barack Obama warned that, in this election, American democracy is at stake. He outlined the strengths he sees in Joe Biden and Kamala Harris, then warned people not to let “this president and those in power… those who benefit from keeping things the way they are… [to] take away your power. Don’t let them take away your democracy…. What we do echoes through the generations.” 

It was a powerful speech—one for the ages, really—and it set up the night’s final speaker, California Senator Kamala Harris, now the Democratic candidate for vice president. 

Harris tied Obama’s theme to her own story as the American-born child of immigrants, reminding us that America is a “a beloved community where all are welcome.”

But not everyone sees America that way. “I think we need to ask ourselves, why don’t they want us to vote?” she said. “Why is there so much effort to silence our voices? And the answer is because when we vote, things change. When we vote, things get better…. Years from now, this moment will have passed. And our children and our grandchildren will look in our eyes and ask us: Where were you when the stakes were so high? … And we will tell them. We will tell them, not just how we felt. We will tell them what we did.”

—Heather Cox Richardson

“Don’t forget: Joe and Kamala can win 3 million more votes and still lose,” Hillary Clinton said. “Take it from me.”

OPPORTUNITY

Someone using Mauritius as their home address visits my blog most days. I have access to view-counts and country-counts. I know where in the world my viewers are logging on and how many pages have been viewed from each country. I can’t help being curious about who is reading my posts from Mauritius. I know where that is, but not who.

The pandemic has cost me travel and entertainment and face to face meetings, Scrabble games and Farmers Market shopping. But some things might might change permanently, and some of those changes might be . . . at least interesting.

As one example, some events I would never have traveled to are now scheduled as online meetings. I can attend an Adroit issue launch, for example. I’m not certain I could do that before. I’ve been invited via email to several readings I am certain I could never have seen before. Living in a tiny community of mostly vacation homes in Oregon, New York City public readings might as well have been on the moon.

I understand people missing the “water cooler” moments and the schmoozing and drinking after-event events. Since I never enjoyed those sorts of gatherings, this is no loss to me. I see opportunity here.

Another opportunity is a sensible reorganization of clocks. Since much of the world ignores real time anyway—noon no longer means when the sun is at its zenith—maybe rethink this whole clock thing. Clocks made sense once upon a time as a way of dividing time. Now they are simply a matter of numbers telling us what to do when. And this is complicated by the way time zones divide up the world.

If I want to speak to a person in a London shop, for example, I must first look up their hours of operation online. Then I call up a conversion table to find out what 8am is local time. Then I can schedule a call.

Imagine that the entire world went on Greenwich Mean Time, the time I increasingly find on charts and websites these day. That is, today would begin just after the clock showed midnight at Greenwich, but it would be today all over the world at the same time instead of already tomorrow in some places—or is that yesterday? It would still be inconvenient to wake in the morning and find that the London shop had already closed at 5pm, but it would be open at 8am, which would be early afternoon for me tomorrow, and 8am would be 8am all over the world. London doesn’t currently observe GMT, which adds another wrinkle. In a worldwide system of GMT, they would, and if they wanted to open for business an hour later in the summer, they could do that.

Sure, confusion at first. We are fond of our numbers. Locally, I would be waking with the sun about 1pm, but the time would be 1pm everywhere. No confusion about whether it’s today or tomorrow in Hong Kong. (Seriously, you are never confused about that international date line?) Hours posted would hold true all over the world. Could I get used to rising when the clock says 1pm instead of 6am and heading for bed when my clock says 4am? They’re just numbers. I think I could accustomed myself to the numbers. My internal clock wakes me at sunrise and sends me to bed at dark.

In the mean time, I would still wonder who looks at my blog in Mauritius late in my night?

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I know about these islands because one of Patrick O’Brian’s Aubrey/Maturin novels is set in the islands. This image is from Wikicommons.

FLAMBOYANCE

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One adult shown among a flamboyance of gray flamingo youngsters who haven’t yet eaten enough pink shellfish to turn pink—wait a year and they will become more flamboyant.

Twenty-five thousand adult flamingo couples are summering in the salt marshes of southern France, the largest number since naturalists began counting them forty-five years ago. Over 60,000 flamingoes total—12,000 babies so far. They are harmless to man and beast, eating only krill, tiny saltwater organisms they filter through their beaks in a system not so different from what baleen whales use the filter small fish, krill, copepods, and zooplankton from the sea. The whale babies look just like their parents.

We appear like or unlike our parents, can be trusted or not trusted even by them to do what is expected. Most living things gather.

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The youngster on the left is still begging for food. The gull babies do that too.

A group of ravens can be called many things. Here, the term “conspiracy” of ravens works for me. (I have never appreciated the term “unkindness of ravens”). The two raven youngsters look just like their parents—one has a fluffy head and is slightly bigger, but that might be one of the youngsters.

 

They are still hanging around together, though one of the adults sometimes wanders off on scouting missions.

Gary broke up a leftover waffle and some crumbs and put them out on the sand at the beginning of our walk the other day. The ravens stuck around long enough to say thank you.

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You’ll have to take my word for it that this photo shows three black oystercatchers.

We spotted the black oystercatcher youngster with its parents the other day at the north end of our beach. I did not zoom to catch which of the three was the child, but it didn’t really matter. I snapped the photo in the fog as we passed at a distance. We’re just grateful the baby is doing so well.

We are careful not to approach birds resting on the sand. If they are not flying, they likely want their rest, but it’s tricky for them with so many loose dogs. A photographer deliberately frightened dozen of birds off the sand just to get a photo of them flying.

That’s not as bad as the people trying to “rescue” baby seals (highly illegal and often fatal for the seal pup left onshore by its mother) or young eagles (disturbing any member of an “aerie of eagles” is also illegal and dangerous for the fool trying to “rescue” one). Or the man throwing a ball for his dogs into the surf in an outgoing tide. [This is why Gary does not like me to go with him when he gets the mail. He says I bark at people—I did bark at that man with the throwing stick. “They’re hunting dogs,” he said. “They trust you,” I responded. I saw a dog rolled right under waves, come out of the surf and absolutely refuse to go back in again. The dog was smarter than the owner.]

The wild things are right not to trust us, to focus a wary eye on our movements. We are not of their group, not trustworthy or predictable and kind. The wild rabbits (a nest) nibbling rose hips in our the front yard, the jays (a party) cruising through, the garter snakes (a bed), and gulls (a colony) and know to avoid us.

We try not to disturb the wildlife. When we must pass birds onshore, we walk steadily, avert our eyes, and direct ourselves away, away!

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These two black oystercatchers are not the same pair. There is a  
“parcel” or “stew” of oystercatchers nesting south of us.

The featured image at top is from Wikipedia: “James’s Flamingos at Laguna Colorada in Bolivia”  “Young flamingos hatch with grayish-red plumage, but adults range from light pink to bright red due to aqueous bacteria and beta-carotene obtained from their food supply.”
The adolescent flamingos with one adult is a Getty image taken off the Smithsonian page

BECOME A TEACHER

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One of my former teachers and one of my former students. This was taken a long time ago. One has “left the planet” and the other is now a tenured professor of English. We are taught and we teach and sometimes those we teach become teachers.

We need teachers. We need teachers who are not merely well-educated and kind and hard-working. We need teachers who are smarter than most of their students. My original post “WHY YOU DON’T WANT TO BECOME A TEACHER” went up on my previous blog while I was actively teaching in a public high school. I reposted it here in February of last year, a month before I retired completely. Nearly two thousand people have looked at it just since, a thousand just this year. Google leads people to it from all over the world. People in Thailand, South Africa, Nepal, Greece, the UK, and France read it while I am asleep. It is my most-read post. Again.

Continue reading

DISTRACTION PERFORMANCE

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Forty years ago, I was climbing a seastack (don’t do this) and when I pulled myself level with the top I was eye to eye with a black bird with that brilliant enamel colored eye, staring right back at me.

That was my first close view of a black oystercatcher. I have seen a few since. We cannot miss their cry, a quick flutey scrawl. We particularly look forward to that sound during nesting season.

According to Oregon Fish and Wildlife, “The black oystercatcher is a large, long-lived shorebird about 38 centimeters (15 inches) in length with a long, thick, reddish-orange bill, a yellow eye encircled by an orange ring, and pink legs, all of which are strikingly set off by entirely black plumage.  Juveniles have somewhat browner plumage and a dark tip on the bill.  Oystercatchers are monogamous, returning to the same nesting territories to pair with the same mate each year.” Continue reading

NORTH

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In the morning on tide-swept sand, we recognize footprints of local humans we can name and coyote, raccoons, deer, and various birds we cannot name.

Yesterday morning we walked north nearly to Arcadia Beach. This morning we walked from the north to Cape Falcon. Continue reading

John Lewis

Two days before his death, John Lewis submitted an Opinion piece to The New York Times that he hoped would be published on the day of his funeral. “Though I am gone, I urge you to answer the highest calling of your heart and stand up for what you truly believe.” 

While my time here has now come to an end, I want you to know that in the last days and hours of my life you inspired me. You filled me with hope about the next chapter of the great American story when you used your power to make a difference in our society. Millions of people motivated simply by human compassion laid down the burdens of division. Around the country and the world you set aside race, class, age, language and nationality to demand respect for human dignity.

That is why I had to visit Black Lives Matter Plaza in Washington, though I was admitted to the hospital the following day. I just had to see and feel it for myself that, after many years of silent witness, the truth is still marching on.

Emmett Till was my George Floyd. He was my Rayshard Brooks, Sandra Bland and Breonna Taylor. He was 14 when he was killed, and I was only 15 years old at the time. I will never ever forget the moment when it became so clear that he could easily have been me. In those days, fear constrained us like an imaginary prison, and troubling thoughts of potential brutality committed for no understandable reason were the bars.

Though I was surrounded by two loving parents, plenty of brothers, sisters and cousins, their love could not protect me from the unholy oppression waiting just outside that family circle. Unchecked, unrestrained violence and government-sanctioned terror had the power to turn a simple stroll to the store for some Skittles or an innocent morning jog down a lonesome country road into a nightmare. If we are to survive as one unified nation, we must discover what so readily takes root in our hearts that could rob Mother Emanuel Church in South Carolina of her brightest and best, shoot unwitting concertgoers in Las Vegas and choke to death the hopes and dreams of a gifted violinist like Elijah McClain.

Like so many young people today, I was searching for a way out, or some might say a way in, and then I heard the voice of Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. on an old radio. He was talking about the philosophy and discipline of nonviolence. He said we are all complicit when we tolerate injustice. He said it is not enough to say it will get better by and by. He said each of us has a moral obligation to stand up, speak up and speak out. When you see something that is not right, you must say something. You must do something. Democracy is not a state. It is an act, and each generation must do its part to help build what we called the Beloved Community, a nation and world society at peace with itself.

Ordinary people with extraordinary vision can redeem the soul of America by getting in what I call good trouble, necessary trouble. Voting and participating in the democratic process are key. The vote is the most powerful nonviolent change agent you have in a democratic society. You must use it because it is not guaranteed. You can lose it.

You must also study and learn the lessons of history because humanity has been involved in this soul-wrenching, existential struggle for a very long time. People on every continent have stood in your shoes, though decades and centuries before you. The truth does not change, and that is why the answers worked out long ago can help you find solutions to the challenges of our time. Continue to build union between movements stretching across the globe because we must put away our willingness to profit from the exploitation of others.

Though I may not be here with you, I urge you to answer the highest calling of your heart and stand up for what you truly believe. In my life I have done all I can to demonstrate that the way of peace, the way of love and nonviolence is the more excellent way. Now it is your turn to let freedom ring.

When historians pick up their pens to write the story of the 21st century, let them say that it was your generation who laid down the heavy burdens of hate at last and that peace finally triumphed over violence, aggression and war. So I say to you, walk with the wind, brothers and sisters, and let the spirit of peace and the power of everlasting love be your guide.


John Lewis, the civil rights leader and congressman who died on July 17, wrote this essay shortly before his death.

Photograph of John Lewis by David Deal/Redux